Dominated by neon-lit mega-clubs, but away from the glow, smaller establishments heave with live rock, punk, folk, and experimental electro. In Dongcheng, MAO Livehouse (111 Gulou Dongdajie; 86-10/6402-5080), and Yugong Yishan (3 Zhang Zizhoung Lu; 86-10/6404 2711) feature nightly live music from top local artists. For something smoother, head to the suitably dingy East Shore [...]